Vegan Cusco as a gateway to the Inca world

The Inca ruins of Machu Picchu still hold the same wonder and a mystery today, as they must have when Hiram Bingham discovered them in 1911. It is this intrigue that has placed Peru on our bucket list for a long time. Going there as part of our honeymoon package was a dream come true.

Machu Picchu

In my research about this country I read a lot about the traditional food that Peru offers. Probably the most famous local dishes that first come to mind are ‘ceviche’ (fresh raw local fish marinated with a lime juice), ‘cuy chactado’ (roasted guinea pig!) or ‘lomo saltado’ (platter of beef with sautéed onions and tomatoes, served with fries and rice). These are of course not particularly vegan-friendly. Luckily there is a lot more that meets the eye. Most Peruvians in fact eat predominantly plant-based-diet, especially in small rural communities in the Andean mountains and the jungle. The staple dishes include potatoes, pulses, vegetables and fruits.

Did you know that Peru is the birthplace of the humble potato? Around 2,500 varieties of this vegetable are native to the Peruvian Andes. They come in all shapes, sizes and even colours. They were first brought into the Old World (Europe) by the Spanish conquistadors in XVIth century. It is hard to believe that they were unknown to our ancestors prior to the discovery of the America in 1492.

Most travellers start their journey to the world-famous Machu Picchu Inca ruins in Cusco. This Unesco World Heritage Site was once the capital of the Inca Empire and is now the gateway to the most important Inca sites in the region. It is a beautiful city with layers of history. Walking through the streets one notices both evidence of Spanish colonial architecture, as well as vibrant culture of the indigenous tribe of Quechua.

Cusco 

What about the food? According to the Happy Cow directory, Cusco has 10 vegan and 11 vegetarian restaurants (and the list is growing). One of them is 100% vegan Shaman Restaurant. It is a very unique place, dedicated to ancient shamanic food practices. Hidden away in the narrow Santa Catalina Ancha street, it offers a menu of the day for a very affordable price of few dollars. The food offer is truly impressive and the dishes are beautifully presented. This is coming directly from our personal experience as it was the first place we had lunch when we arrived in Cusco.

Menu at the Shaman Restaurant

We could not resist the temptation of the menu of the day. The waitress spoke little English, but as I speak Spanish fairly fluently we had no troubles ordering our meal.

First came this colourful and refreshing pineapple and pepper salad with a basket of fresh bread. After a long day of travelling from Lima to Cusco, this was an ideal start to this delicious and nutritious lunch.

Shaman Restaurant: entree of pineapple and red pepper salad

Following the entrée, came our starter – green vegetables soup, which was both flavoursome and heart-warming. As Cusco is located at 3,400m above the sea level, altitude sickness can be a problem. In our case it was mostly lack of sleep, which in fact made us even hungrier.

Shaman Restaurant: starter of green vegetables soup

Having satisfied our tummies a bit, we tucked into the mouth-watering main course: a pyramid of quinoa, served with creamy refried Peruvian white beans and avocado on the side. We enjoyed it together with a green fruit and vegetable fresh juice. It was a dream come true on this misty slightly chilly day in the mountains!

Shaman Restaurant: main course of quinoa, white beans and side vegetables

For some reason, I forgot to take a picture of the dessert, which on that day was a lightly spiced carrot cake. It was a winning combination, which satisfied both myself and a fellow vegan traveller, as well as our non-vegan husbands.

Apart from the potatoes, Peru is also famous for its chocolate. The Peruvian cocoa beans, often described as one of the highest quality in the world, are very sought-after. No trip to Cuzco would be therefore complete without trying this sweet delicacy. Wandering around through the narrow cobbled streets in the Old Town, we saw a lot of chocolate shops. One in particular caught our attention. Located by the Plaza El Regocijo, ChocoMuseo can be found in an old colonial building. It offers a small exhibition showcasing the history of chocolate, as well as a café and a shop downstairs. As you enter this place, you get a feeling like if you were stepping into someone’s living room. And in a truly homely atmosphere, you are offered a number of delicious free samples: chocolate bars, chocolate spreads and even chocolate liqueurs. Thanks to the concentration and quality of the cocoa few additives are required making many varieties vegan. All products are clearly labelled. Having sampled a lot of chocolate goodies, we decided to finish our day with a cup of steaming thick hot chocolate. We sat down at the little square in front of the museum shop and were soaking in the atmosphere of this ancient and diverse city.

Luckily our hotel was a short stroll down the street. We literally rolled into our beds with full tummies and open minds, excited for the next stage of our Peruvian adventure. 

Beyond Cusco: in the land of Incas

Many travellers treat Cusco as a short stop on the way to Machu Picchu. Some choose to get to this world-famous site by train from Aguas Calientes. Others like us decide to take up the challenge of a four-day hike and sleeping under the tents. Camping anywhere in the world is often associated with food cooked over bonfires and pretty basic living conditions. But what if you are a vegan traveller? Does this add another level of complexity? I cannot speak for all the tour operators, but the one we chose – GAdventures was absolutely fantastic.

After our short visit to Cusco, we embarked on our next adventure. The first stop, still by bus, was the Sacred Valley. The mountainous landscapes of lush green hills and sheep and goats wandering had a somewhat calming effect after the buzz of the city. We visited a small community with traditional women’s weaving co-op, a local pottery and stopped for lunch in Huchuy Qosco.

Again the vegan options did not disappoint. For my starter I got to enjoy a traditional rice and vegetables soup. My artistically served main was a dish of quinoa mixed with vegetables, stuffed pepper and a side of potatoes. The fruit salad and a cup of hot coco tea was just a perfect finish this authentic Peruvian experience.

Huchuy Qosco: traditional Peruvian lunch 

Trekking along the classic Inca Trail as a vegan

Our last stop before the actual trail was Ollantaytambo. During the Inca Empire, this little town was the royal estate and ceremonial centre of Emperor Pachacuti, who conquered the region. The Inca Ruins towering over the locality offer magnificent views of the Sacred Valley. Nowadays, the town is an important tourist attraction en route to one of the most common starting points for the Inca Trail.

Having departed Ollantaytambo early in the morning the following day we reached km 82 by van, which marked the beginning of our trek. We started hiking along the meandering streams, soaking in the stunning Andean scenery and passing by ancient Incan ruins.

The first rest stop was at Tarayoc camp. Despite pre-trip trepidation, I was served my first G-Adventure meal and the colourful plate exceeded all my expectations. The avocado tasted like nothing I have ever tried before. The vegetable medley was both flavoursome and served in an elegant way. And the ball of rice filled me up for the rest of the afternoon.

Lunch on the trek - Day 1

This was the start of things to come. Along the way I was served a daily hearty breakfast of either oatmeal, pancakes or traditional Andean bread with a selection of spreads. My mid-morning snack was usually a granola bar, a piece of fruit or nuts. 

Did someone mention teatime? Yes indeed! Each day having arrived at the camp and before dinner was ready, we were welcomed with hot tea, coffee, and a selection of crackers, biscuits or popcorn.

The daily culinary highlight of each day was dinner. It was prepared by a small team of talented local chefs with a help of simple utensils and a flashlight. The wonderful three-course daily evening meal consisted of a soup, such as potato, rice and vegetables, or Andean corn chowder. The main dish in my case was typically spicy soya chunks, vegetables (fried, steamed or fresh) and rice or potatoes. This was then followed by a dessert (often fresh fruit) and a hot cup of coco tea. The cooks achieved the unimaginable, producing delights on the side of a mountain that you would d be happy eat in a quality restaurant. Including, although not vegan, baking a cake on a campfire!   

A special thanks has to go to the porters that carried all this food, water and camping equipment required to make these culinary feasts possible on their backs the entire way. Impressive!

Dinner on the trek 

     

   

 Dinner on the trek 

With such an array of nutritious and delicious vegan treats, the hike was one of the most unforgettable experiences of our lives!

And what about Peru overall? What is the verdict from the perspective of a vegan traveller? From my personal experience, I can certainly confirm that the country is full of plant-based treasures and hidden gem restaurants and cafés. There is something for every budget and many traditional dishes are either vegan or can be easily ‘veganised’. Without a doubt, Peru occupies a special place in our hearts now.