Vegan-friendly Balkans – a dream or reality?

If you have ever travelled around the Balkans, you have probably come across such local delicacies like cevapcici, a skinless sausage; burek, a cheese filled flaky pastry; or kajmak, a thick spreadable sour cream. But what if you are a vegan and your diet excludes any meat or dairy products? Are the Balkans a destination for you?

The Balkans are one of my favourite regions of Europe. Rich with history, culture and fascinating landscapes, they attract certain types of travellers. They appeal to those who look for more than sun-drenched beaches, comfortable tourist resorts and ease of moving from one point to another.

As a passionate adventure seeker, who has been a vegan for just over a year, I knew my third journey to south-eastern Europe may present some new challenges. Namely food. Inspired by Wendy Werneth’s book “Veggie Planet” I knew that doing my homework would be essential. With the help of Happy Cow (online directory of veggie-friendly restaurants, also available as a mobile app), I ‘pinned’ the places on my virtual map. This allowed me and my non-vegan family to eat out at local restaurants, where everybody had something they liked.

My favourite food discoveries included two places in Croatia: 100% vegan Nishta restaurant in Dubrovnik’s Old Town and mostly vegan Macrovega in the slightly bohemian part of Split. Both places offered delicious, healthy and budget-friendly food that satisfied taste buds of the entire family.

Colourful salad and 'Green-Pea-Coconut-Mint Soup' @Nishta 

The colours, flavours and textures have inspired us to recreate some of the dishes at home. Our top choices from Nishta included: ‘Cauliflower Crunch’, cauliflower coated with almond and amaranth with curried sauce, ‘Green-Pea Coconut-Mint Soup’ (exactly what it says on the tin) and rainbow ‘Buddha Bowl’ with quinoa, chickpeas, buckwheat and seasonal vegetables. My parents had never been to a vegan restaurant before and this was an excellent first time experience. Had we had another evening in Dubrovnik, we would have been back for sure! Nishta has another restaurant in Zagreb, which we’ll definitely visit one day when exploring the Croatian capital.

Colourful vegan food @Nishta

'Cauliflower Crunch' @Nishta

The absolute favourite from Split was a dessert made from apples, walnuts, soya-based cream, sweetened with agave syrup. A vegan cheesecake that would challenge any dairy-based equivalent. This followed a two course colourful lunch for just 80kn (approximately 10EUR) in total. The lunch menu at Macrovega changes daily. Ours included: vegetable soup with brown lentils, grilled seitan in aromatic vegan pesto, millet with vegetables, steamed vegetables with tofu, tempura vegetables and mixed salad.

A vegan cheesecake @Macrovega

In terms of vegan-friendly drinks, the traditional coffee enjoyed all around the Balkans is typically a black Turkish-style coffee served with rose-flavoured lokum (aka Turkish Delight). Fresh fruit juices are also very popular and you can find them in most cafés.

The real treat was a long iced soya latte from a little café in the historic city of Kotor, Montenegro. Interestingly it was run by a Korean lady from Seoul and offered a delightful refreshment on a hot day of sightseeing. 

Finally one should not overlook the traditional ‘green markets’ or roadside food stalls that you can find all around the region. These offer an incredible variety of fresh fruit and vegetables at very affordable prices (especially if you are willing to negotiate the price a little bit).

Conclusion? Vegan-friendly Balkans are certainly becoming a reality. And for those who wish to embark on a bit of a ‘treasure hunt’, there are culinary gems to be found alongside the history and scenery. Embrace a few local words to help yourself along the way. ‘Dobar tek!’ (‘Bon appétit!’), as they say in Croatia.

This article was originally published on The Nomadic Vegan blog: https://www.thenomadicvegan.com/vegan-croatia/